How to Grow Strawberries: Complete Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Guide
This post may contain affiliate links, please see our privacy policy for more information.
Plant your first strawberry crowns today and, by next summer, you’ll be tucking ruby-red berries into homemade shortcakes, jams, and morning yogurt bowls.
Strawberries are surprisingly easy to grow—and nothing beats the flavor of a sun-warmed berry picked straight from the garden. This gentle, step-by-step guide shows you exactly how to plant, care for, and harvest your own strawberry patch.
Why Grow Your Own strawberries?
Unmatched Flavor— Have you ever tasted a homegrown or fresh from the farmer’s market strawberry? There is truly nothing better! The berries from the grocery store simply do not compare. Homegrown berries are sweeter and more aromatic than store bought varieties.
Perennial Payoff— While it takes a bit to wait for your homegrown strawberry harvest, you only have to plant them once! Then you’ll receive delicious berries for 3 to 4 years after.
Space-Saving— Strawberries can be grow in small spaces, making them ideal for backyard and container gardens. They can be planted in hanging baskets, barrels, or tucked along garden borders.
Family Favorite— Easy, and quick results make strawberries perfect for gardening with kids.
Strawberry Types & Best Varieties
There are different types of strawberries available to plant and choosing which is best will depend on your personal desires for harvesting as well as where you live. Everbearing strawberries are often what is recommended to plant because they will continue to bear fruit even after the June berries are finished. They produce fruit in the spring, lightly in the summer, and then again in the fall. These are great for gardeners who enjoy lots of berries and live in a place that experiences all four seasons.
| Type | Harvest Window | Top Garden Cultivars |
|---|---|---|
| June-bearing | Heavy flush once per year (late spring/early summer) | 'Earliglow,' 'Honeoye,' 'Jewel' |
| Everbearing | Two lighter crops (early summer and early fall) | 'Ozark Beauty,' 'Quinault' |
| Day-neutral | Continuous trickle of berries when temperatures range 55-80°F (13-26°C) | 'Albion,' 'Seascape,' 'Mara des Bois' |
Pro Tip: Mix June-bearing for bulk preserves + Day-neutral for snacking all season!
When and Where to Plant Strawberries
Strawberry plants are fairly easy to grow, however they do have specific needs. They require about 6 to 10 hours of direct sunlight per day, so be sure to choose a sunny spot to plant your strawberry crowns.
Timing Tips:
Cold Winter Zones (4-6): Plant in early spring as soon as the soil is workable
Mild-Winter Zones (7-10): Plant in late fall to early winter or plant potted starts in very early spring
Best Growing Conditions:
Sun: 6 to 10 hours per day
Soil: Slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5), though they are fairly tolerant of most soils. Make sure it is well-draining and rich with compost.
Spacing: 12-inches (30-cm) between plants; 3 ft (1-m) between rows (or one crown per 10-in (25-cm) pot).
Tools & Supplies You Will Need
Bare-root Crowns or Potted Starts— There are advantages and disadvantages to both of these kinds of strawberry starts. Bare-root crowns are a bit scary as they are just scraggly roots with no leaves. They will take off easily, so don’t worry about them! You can also purchase strawberries already started in pots, which will help boost your plants along a bit quicker. If anything, I wouldn’t recommend trying to grow strawberries from seed as a beginner gardener!
Well-Rotted Compost & Balanced Organic Fertilizer— Strawberries definitely need a boost of compost or well-rotted manure in the top few inches of soil before planting! Use a balanced fertilizer (such as a 10-10-10) to fertilized your newly planted berry starts.
Straw Mulch— Strawberries are named for straw mulch! Straw mulch is best because it includes insulation against temperature extremes, retains moisture, suppresses weeds, and most importantly… keeps your berries clean and off the ground!
Pruners or Garden Scissors— You’ll want these for clipping back your berries, which is nicer on your plants.
Drip Hose or Soaker Line (optional)— It’s always best to water where the plant needs it: at the roots! Drip hose or soaker lines can be the best bet for watering your berries.
Lightweight Bird Netting (optional)— If you want to avoid the birds eating your supply of tasty berries, you may want to consider investing in some bird netting to keep them at bay.
How to Plant Strawberries Step-by-Step
Prepare your bed by gently loosening soil and removing weeds. Work in 2-inches (5-cm) of compost. If your soil is heavy and compact, consider planting in containers or raised beds.
Soak bare-root crowns in room-temperature water for about 20 minutes.
Dig a cone-shaped hole and drape the roots over the cove so the crown dits level with the soil surface. It is very important that you do not bury the crowns or they could rot. If you are planting potted strawberry plants, simply dig a hole deep enough to completely bury the root ball.
Space plants 12-inches (30-cm) between plants; 3 ft (1-m) between rows. Strawberries will sprawl and eventually grow runners that can be grown into new plants.
Water thoroughly and deeply, then label your varieties.
Mulch immediately with 2-inches (5-cm) of straw or shredded leaves to suppress weeds and keep your berries clean.
To Plant Strawberries in Containers
Potted strawberries are difficult to mess up. Plant your berries to the same depth as the potting mix in the plant’s container and you are good to go! For bare-root crowns, make sure that you do not plant too deep or too shallow. You want the crown of the plant where the stems of the leaves emerge to be settled just at the surface of the soil.
Care tips for Strawberries
Watering: Water your strawberry plants 1 to 2-inches (5-cm) per week. Keep the soil evenly moist during fruit set and try to avoid soggy soil, which can make the roots rot. It’s best to keep them well watered while they are establishing their roots and during dry weather. They tend to need the most water when the runners and flowers are developing, as well as when they are fully mature in late summer and gearing up to go dormant over the winter.
Fertilizing: Strawberries can and should be fertilized once they begin to flower. Use a high-potassium fertilizer, such as a tomato fertilizer, to encourage good fruit production.
Weed Control: Keep your strawberry beds mulched to help suppress weeds as well as to retain moisture. Check your mulch weekly to see if it is keeping up the task of suppressing weeds. You can use any type of mulch, not just straw.
Blossom Management: In the first year, it’s recommended to pick off blossoms so that your strawberry plants are discouraged from producing fruit. This means they will use their energy to develop healthy roots rather than berries, which will benefit you in the following years! You will have a much higher yield with bigger berries in year 2.
Runner Management: Runners need to be eliminated, especially in the first year. The first year runners are not very strong, so if you want to start new strawberry plants off of the runners, use the runners from the second or third year. You can leave runners in the ground during years 2 and 3 if they are spaced 10-inches (25-cm) from the mother plant.
Use Bird Netting: To prevent birds from eating your precious berries, laying a lightweight bird netting over your patch is a surefire way to keep them away.
Caring for Strawberries in Winter
Because strawberry plants are perennial, they go dormant in the winter months and then produce again in the following spring/summer. They can survive mildly freezing temperatures (be sure to research the right varieties for your cold hardiness zone).
You can help your strawberry plants by providing some winter protection, especially if you live in a place with winter temperatures that dip below 20°F.
Mow or Cut Down Foliage: When the growing season is over, mow down your strawberries (literally!) or cut them back manually with garden scissors to about 1-inch (2.5-cm) above the soil. You can do this after the first couple of fall frosts or when the air temps reach 20°F (-6°C).
Mulch Plants Deeply: Cover your mown down plants with about 4-inches (10-cm) of straw, pine needles, dry leaves, or other organic material to protect them.
Don’t Water: The natural precipitation over winter should be enough added moisture for the plants.
Remove Mulch in Spring: In the early spring months after the danger of frost has passed, you can uncover your plants and let them see the sun again!
How to Propagate Strawberries
I’ve mentioned the runners on strawberry plants a few times now. These runners are new plants that are trying to take root into the soil, growing off of the mother plant. These long and wiry daughter plants can be used to grow more strawberries and to expand your patch!
To propagate your strawberries, simply use garden staples or even hair pins to gently press the plantlets on the runner’s stems to the soil. This will encourage them root into the soil. Alternately, you can fill up 6-inch (15-cm) planting pots with potting soil and press the plantlets into the container. Once the plantlets have established roots, usually about 4 to 6 weeks later, you can clip the runner from the mother plant. Leave the new runner to grow in the pots over winter in a greenhouse or cold frame, which is recommended if you have harsh winters. Otherwise, they can be transplanted wherever you are hoping to grow them for next season!
Harvesting Strawberries
You’ll know when it’s time to harvest your strawberries: their bright red skins give them away!
Pick When Fully Red: Harvest your fresh strawberries when they are fully ripened, which is when they have turned completely red. This is optimal for the best flavor. However, you can pick them when they are still a bit white/light-pink and they will continue to ripen in the refrigerator or at room temperature. They will not be as flavorful as when they are sun-ripened, but this can extend their shelf life.
Snap the Berries: from their plant by grasping the stem just above the cap and gently tugging. Avoid pulling too hard to prevent damage to the plant. You can also use garden scissors to gently snip the berries from the plant, though this can become old quickly.
Eat or Chill Immediately: Berries do not last long at room temperature on the counter, especially during the hot, humid summer days. It’s best to chill them as soon as possible so that they stay fresh for longer.
Do Not Wash Them. Yet! Strawberries have a protective coating on them called a “bloom” and washing them can cause the berries to go bad faster. If you are not planning to eat your berries right away, leave them unwashed for now. Then, wash them as right before you are ready to eat or bake with them.
Harvest Berries Every 1 to 2 Days. This may seem excessive, but the season is short (especially for June-bearing berries). Make sure to check daily for new berries during their peak.
How to Store Strawberries
Store unwashed berries in the refrigerator for about 5 days.
Strawberries can be frozen whole for about 2 to 4 months.
Dehydrate your berries or preserve them into jam, fruit butter, or fruit leather.
Read my post with Tips for Harvesting and Storing Fresh Strawberries.
Common Pests & Diseases
| Symptom | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Fuzzy gray spores on fruit & leaves | Gray Mold (Botrytis) | Space plants farther, remove affected berries, thin excess foliage, apply Bacillus subtilis spray, keep straw mulch dry |
| White, powdery coating on leaves and stems, can appear web-like | Powdery Mildew | Prune crowded runners, avoid overhead watering, apply sulfur or potassium bicarbonate spray at first sign |
| Skeletonized or "lacy" leaves and flowers | Japanese Beetles | During the grub stage use BTG or Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae (grubGONE!), hand pick early to prevent mating and use the soapy water bucket method, protect with lightweight row covers, do NOT use traps - they attract more beetles! |
| Stripped yellow leaves, fine webbing | Spider Mites | Hose off undersides of leaves weekly, use neem oil or insecticidal soap, introduce ladybugs or predatory mites (last resort) |
| Ragged holes in ripe berries; slime trails | Slugs/Pillbugs | Hand-pick slugs at dusk, set shallow beer traps, keep straw mulch fluffy and not overly damp, use copper tape around beds |
| Peck marks, half-eaten red fruit | Birds | Drape lightweight bird netting or insect mesh over patch, add shiny scare tape or spinning pinwheels around crop |
| Holes and deep cavities in overripe berries | Strawberry Sap Beetles or Picnic Beetles | Remove overripe, damaged, or diseased fruits from the patch at regular intervals, collect other decomposing fruit and vegetables in surrounding areas to eliminate food sources and habitats, pesticides are not very effective on these beetles |
Final Thoughts
Radishes are the gardener’s instant-gratification crops— perfect for growing with kids, beginner gardeners, or anyone looking to add a speedy harvest to their kitchen garden rotation. All you need is a small patch of soil and some seeds to enjoy crisp, colorful roots in under a month. Enjoy sowing a row or two and see how quickly small efforts can yield big (and tasty) rewards!
xoxo Kayla
You Might Also Like
Strawberries are surprisingly easy to grow—and nothing beats the flavor of a sun-warmed berry picked straight from the garden. This gentle, step-by-step guide shows you exactly how to plant, care for, and harvest your own strawberry patch.